Something for Everyone in The Catskills

One of the things I love about being in the country is the great demographic diversity that it attracts. With so many small towns and attractions, there is something there for everyone. Whether its swimming, fishing, boating, hunting, gambling, antiquing or eagle watching, the crowds are wide and varied.

Monticello is the county seat for Sullivan County and is where the Monticello Raceway and Casino is located. It attracts a 35+ adult crowd that is drawn to both gambling and nightlife, with live bands often performing cover tunes. Open daily from 6am to 12am, it is a big attraction for many in the region who want to socialize. If horse trot-racing is your pastime, there is also a full raceway with races taking place every month, over 206 days each year.

Situated along the Delaware River, Sullivan County also offers up a many options for river sports, attracting families and groups, large and small, of all types. Camping is enjoyed by all kinds of people, creating a great mix of old and young across the countless campgrounds, including the Boy Scouts  of America located on Ten Mile River in Narrowsburg. From naturalists to city dwellers who bring boom boxes, the camp sites have an eclectic mix of folk.

Some of the most dedicated garage sale shoppers I know are from the Catskills and they never miss a good deal or the scores of antique shops in the area. For visitors who want to join in the fun of collecting heirlooms or just some period pieces, Sullivan County Visitors Association keeps a great list to add to your trip planner.

When it comes to hunting season, suddenly the woods are filled with men (primarily) who come for their annual guys weekend. It's not like summertime when town or the roads are busier. These folks tend to hunker down in the woods where you don't exactly see them. But, you can feel their presence and if that isn't enough, you can certainly hear the gun fire! It can be a bit scary in some places if you're not used to it, but they are situated on large private properties and hunting clubs with enough distance from others. Bow and arrow hunting starts as early as September and then rifle hunting begins in November. The season is also categorized by big game, turkey and furbearer.  Hunting sure does attract an altogether different segment of the population!

I know many people who enjoy cruising on their motorcycles and there are famous routes that they ride. One of these famous rides that many bikers enjoy is along Route 97, near Pt. Jervis, NY. When you enter into Sullivan County from that side, it places you along a high perch above the Delaware River along a winding road at Hawks Nest. From there you not only get some of the best river views, you can also catch hawk and eagle sighting. There is enough room for a dozen cars or motorcycles to pull over  and capture the beauty of this scenic spot. From May until October you can not only see but often hear the roar of the motorcycles driving along 97 on their ride up into the Poconos. Even that group of people is highly diversified, all ages and lifestyles represented.

The Catskills attract people of all types for all kinds of purposes and activities. While I mainly enjoy quiet hikes and kayaking, the area is loved by so many for so many reasons. I love that race, politics, sexual orientation and general lifestyles are not driving the feel of the area or in any way dictating the vibe overall. I see people of all types not only enjoying what the area has to offer but integrating in a way that is normal, nice and easy. There is even a large Hasidic community sprinkled throughout the region. I don't doubt that there are those who may have their own mixed feelings about others, but I do not see it interfere with the tourism and second homeowner communities, which really lends for the tolerance that we hope, where ever we go.

Building My House in The Catskills

The meaning behind this blog is directly related to my own experience of escaping to The Catskills. For many years I spent my summer weekends at the beach: Jones Beach, Long Beach, Fire Island, Mystic and my most beloved, Montauk. It was usually a house rental or descending upon family, but I always had a plan to be out of the city and step into that sandy paradise.

Six years ago I made the decision to buy a vacation home for weekend use and soon realized that coastal towns in NY and CT were mostly unaffordable. I didn't look too deep into it, since the story was the same all around: even if I could find a home at my price point, the taxes would often make it financially prohibitive. The funny thing is, at that same time I stumbled across a newspaper article about The Catskills of Sullivan County and particularly about a builder who was developing the region with cute cottages and farm houses. I immediately knew it was where I wanted to be.

I didn't know much about the area, only that it was a 2 hour drive from NYC, and along the Delaware River. I made my first trek up in July 2009 and by October, I went into contract on a small cottage in the woods of Narrowsburg. As a single woman, it was a huge, bold move, but one that would also teach me many lessons.

The process of building can be hectic, confusing, exciting and downright insane.  There are so many decisions to be made and then changes that you want to make. Thankfully I come from a long line of contractors and tradesmen, and I was fortunate to have my brother guide me every step of the way. As a person who is visually stimulated, I often could not imagine how things would come together, but they did. I kept my eye on the prize; having my own little retreat on 7 acres in this tiny country town.

It has now been 5+ years since I moved in. I've met other weekenders, locals who are true locals and others who transplanted from nearby urban cities (mostly NYC) and now reside full time. I wave to everyone on the road, keep country distance when driving and have gracefully ingratiated myself with the community. It took a few years to feel like it was my town too, but now it is and I love being part of it.

As a homeowner it is not always easy to explore the region. Once I arrive on a Friday night, I don't really want to spend anymore time driving to other towns. However I have found myself in the position of freelancing over the years which has allowed me to spend longer periods of time in Narrowsburg. This also enabled me to wander to other towns and hamlets, try other restaurants and find new markets to enjoy. Coupled with the group of friends that I have made, it is much easier now to navigate the area and I no longer hang up the car keys upon arrival.

The best part for me is having a place to getaway. It makes such a difference to my mind and body by leaving the busy city with all of its chaos, and learning to sleep in the pitch black night with not a sound to be heard. I can now see how important it is to explore life outside the concrete jungle, including birds which I once feared. I also understand why many of my new friends made their move permanent.

I won't be doing that anytime soon, but I will continue to spread the joy of escaping the city for a rural retreat. I will also continue to explore the region and share my findings.

Big Eddy Film Festival

Big Eddy Film Festival will celebrate its fourth year over a weekend in September in Narrowsburg, NY this year. As film festivals go, there are hundreds of these small festivals taking place all over the country, honoring film makers who are typically working on extremely small budgets while looking for the attention and distribution for their beloved work. In Narrowsburg, BEFF has slowly grown in both recognition and attendance, adding to the rich cultural footprint that has been created here over time.

BEFF is programmed by a local artist, Tina Spangler, who has written, produced and directed her own short films, spent years working at IFC and Sundance and has been in the center of the film industry for much of her career. She relocated to Narrowsburg, NY full-time after time spent in NYC and has developed this annual festival in a very special way. I featured her short film in one of my previous posts, Lucky Lake which showcases her curiosity of the area and talent in capturing a deep history through the lens of locals.

Previous BEFF films have included For Ellen starring Paul Dano, The Truth About Emanuel costarring Alfred Molina and Goodbye To All That, costarring Amy Sedaris, Heather Graham and Heather Lawless. In addition there is a terrific lineup of documentaries along with many shorts that have fascinating themes and stories. Often Ms. Spangler recognizes films made in the area or stories that are meaningful to the region, such as Tiny. One of my favorite documentary films was Alive Inside about the power of music's capacity to reawaken our souls, especially among our aging population. If you haven't heard of it, I urge you to at least play the short video that is available here.

This year the film festival will open on Friday, September 18th and run through Sunday September 20th. While the film line up has not yet been published, I am confident that there are many special features and short films that will excite and delight the crowd. If you are up for a fun weekend getaway full of great films in a beautiful Catskill town, I recommend this film festival. I think you'll be surprised by what you find, both in Narrowsburg and BEFF.

Greene County

In the northernmost part of the Catskills you will find Greene County. It is about 2 hours drive from NYC, nestled up near the Hudson Valley with the Berkshires just off to the east. With just a short drive to the states Capital District of Albany, a getaway to Greene County is full of activities on all scales.

Rich in culture, Greene county has a fantastic art scene that you can build an entire weekend around. On the second Saturday of every month they hold the Second Saturday Stroll with the Catskill art galleries and restaurants hosting special events that include entertainment. The natural beauty of Kaaterskill Clove valley is perfect for the curious looking to explore a primeval landscape. Whether you enjoy rock climbing, hiking or simply visiting the Kaaterskill Falls, you will discover one of the most beautiful American landscapes in this lovely section of the Catskills.

If outdoor adventure is your jam, go over to Hunter Mountain's SkyRider Tour for the longest and fastest zipline tour in North America. In the winter, Hunter and Windham Mountains offer plenty of skiing, snowboarding, snow tubing, ice skating and snowmobiling. And as with any major outdoor site, both also offer a wide selection of summer activities to fill a weekend schedule, including hiking, biking and golf.

Greene County is a sweet spot for year-round fun and a bit of something for everyone. I will dive deeper into the small towns and hamlets in upcoming posts.

Interview with Charles Hadley Blanchard

In my ongoing quest to learn about the people who live in the small towns of the Catskills, I have had the great fortune to meet a wide variety of interesting folks. One in particular is a well known artist and weaver named Charles Hadley Blanchard, owner of Dyeberry Weaver in Narrowsburg NY. He agreed to share his story of arrival to the Catskill region and how it has transformed over the years.

When did you make your way to the Catskills?
I moved to Dyberry Township north of Honesdale, Pennsylvania in 1977----the Wayne (County) Highlands is just across the Delaware River from the Catskills, but Pennsylvanians do not identify with them.

How long have you lived in Narrowsburg? 
I moved to Narrowsburg in 2003---I needed space for my loom necessitated by a divorce.  My studio had been in my home.

When did you become a weaver? 
I have referred to myself as a weaver since 1968 when I first learned on a very simple loom.  It has always been a bad business decision---but I simply have to do it---I GET to do it.  More than a hobby....

Once you settled into The Catskills, did you find a large artist community? How has that community evolved over time?
Due to the proximity to the Metropolitan Area, there are artists here----but this is for the artist who does not need the NYC galleries, necessarily.  There are many venues for SHOWING art, that also sell domestic items.  The local audience is small.

How would you describe the weekender and visitor population?
The main industry in the Delaware Valley is the second home.  There are more and more Bed and Breakfasts, for those who have not yet made the move.  It is increasing.

As a local, do you welcome the changes that are taking place due to the increased tourism? Describe the upsides and downsides of this.
I pray we are spared the deluge of tourists like on the East End Of Long Island.  Yet, the influx has brought the benefit of better restaurants, higher property values and a sense of trying to preserve and enhance our natural resources.

As new artists, restauranteurs and shopkeepers open businesses, the flavor and offering of the Catskills attracts greater amounts of both visitors and second homeowners. While Charles has witnessed a great shift in the population and style of Narrowsburg, NY, I too in just 5 short years have seen an enormous increase of city dwellers buying a slice of the rural pie. As Charles tactfully mentioned, we would like to be spared the deluge of tourists even though we can't escape the need of a fueled economy. It is a delicate balance for sure.

Delaware "DelCo" County

As I continue to explore and share my experiences in The Catskills, I am hooked on a blog that I've mentioned previously called Escaping Brooklyn, from authors and photographers Erin and Denny. It is one of the most well-crafted, beautiful travel guides I've come upon and keeps me coming back for more!

Recently I posted a question for Erin on this post about Delaware County, Bear Hill Farm, and she was kind to reply. Here is our exchange:

susan says:JULY 12, 2015 AT 1:24 PMHello! I am a fan of your blog and of short getaways. I’ve spent a good amount of time in Sullivan County for my Catskill weekends. How does it compare to Delaware County? Would you share a comparative comment or two about your experiences in both areas of this gorgeous region? many thanks!REPLYErin Lindsey says:JULY 12, 2015 AT 2:15 PMHi Susan, thanks for the message. Sullivan County is enormous, spanning from the Delaware Water Gap area to the western Catskills region; Delaware County is right above that with the same “wingspan”. To me, DelCo is feels more farmy (think rolling hills and pastures), and small-town quaint–and definitely has less people. Everything’s a little more spread out. It’s bigger “cities” (Delhi or Margaretville) are smaller and in better much better condition than Sullivan’s cities (Liberty or Monticello). Both are great though–I wouldn’t choose an entire county over another. There are great places to visit in either one.

The time has come for me to map out my next road trip and it looks like Delaware County will be part of that plan. Perhaps I will follow Erin and Denny's lead on a place they have visited, or maybe I'll simply explore a new area. Either way, it sounds like it will be a wonderful trip.

How To Prepare for Your Weekend Getaway

It's not too difficult to fill a weekend bag with the basics: clothes, shoes and some toiletries. Traveling to the Catskills is a casual vacation that doesn't require very much in terms of fancy clothes. However, there are some things to keep in mind that could make your weekend getaway much more comfortable.  Here is a guide for a great Catskills vacation.

Include the following for maximum comfort!
Bring layers, including fleece. The thing about going up to the country is that even during the summer, it can get cool at night. A decent fleece is always useful.

A hat is ideal when its cold, but make no mistake, when you are hiking or roaming about in spring and summer, its great protection from little critters flying about.

A flashlight might not seem like an obvious choice, but I can tell you that there are typically no street lamps in most areas, and you will find it pitch dark, especially if arriving late on a Friday night. That plus the occasional walk in the evening will make this a useful tool.

A bottle opener is just one of those things that you should keep around. You'll soon realize that whether its to pop off a top or unscrew a cork, you are out of luck if you don't have one.

Matches will come in handy if you have the option to start a garden fire, barbecue or simply wish to light a candle. While most rented cabins should have them, its such a small item to bring along and it sure does beat rubbing two sticks together.

Handiwipes are simply handy! If you go for a hike or explore the great outdoors at all, you might just find that there are only port-o-potties which means you won't have much of an option for cleaning up. Of course, an outdoor picnic would also be reason to want a quick wipe down.

Boots or shoes for muddy conditions, because no matter the season, unless you are going during a very dry time, you will find that rural = dirt. No need to mess up those new sneakers or pair of sandals. Pack wisely and plan for a bit of earthiness.

Snacks are essential for any getaway as far as I'm concerned. But when you arrive in the middle of nowhere, you will quickly find that most stores close at 7pm. It's just the way they do it and if you're feeling snacky, you'll wish you had a bag of chips and some bottled water.

Cash is golden! You are not going to no man's land, however while exploring farmers markets and the like, you will find that cash is the currency. Plus, if you're like me and refuse to pay banking fees, you will unlikely find your chosen commercial bank, though you can certainly come upon an ATM.  That's a personal choice.

Last, either print out or make a note of where you are traveling to if it's your first time. While cell towers are popping up all over to provide stronger connections, you will inevitably find pockets where you don't have service. If relying on GPS, it might fail you. So get a sense of the roadways you'll be taking before you leave, as it can only help.

Enjoy your trip!