Building My House in The Catskills

The meaning behind this blog is directly related to my own experience of escaping to The Catskills. For many years I spent my summer weekends at the beach: Jones Beach, Long Beach, Fire Island, Mystic and my most beloved, Montauk. It was usually a house rental or descending upon family, but I always had a plan to be out of the city and step into that sandy paradise.

Six years ago I made the decision to buy a vacation home for weekend use and soon realized that coastal towns in NY and CT were mostly unaffordable. I didn't look too deep into it, since the story was the same all around: even if I could find a home at my price point, the taxes would often make it financially prohibitive. The funny thing is, at that same time I stumbled across a newspaper article about The Catskills of Sullivan County and particularly about a builder who was developing the region with cute cottages and farm houses. I immediately knew it was where I wanted to be.

I didn't know much about the area, only that it was a 2 hour drive from NYC, and along the Delaware River. I made my first trek up in July 2009 and by October, I went into contract on a small cottage in the woods of Narrowsburg. As a single woman, it was a huge, bold move, but one that would also teach me many lessons.

The process of building can be hectic, confusing, exciting and downright insane.  There are so many decisions to be made and then changes that you want to make. Thankfully I come from a long line of contractors and tradesmen, and I was fortunate to have my brother guide me every step of the way. As a person who is visually stimulated, I often could not imagine how things would come together, but they did. I kept my eye on the prize; having my own little retreat on 7 acres in this tiny country town.

It has now been 5+ years since I moved in. I've met other weekenders, locals who are true locals and others who transplanted from nearby urban cities (mostly NYC) and now reside full time. I wave to everyone on the road, keep country distance when driving and have gracefully ingratiated myself with the community. It took a few years to feel like it was my town too, but now it is and I love being part of it.

As a homeowner it is not always easy to explore the region. Once I arrive on a Friday night, I don't really want to spend anymore time driving to other towns. However I have found myself in the position of freelancing over the years which has allowed me to spend longer periods of time in Narrowsburg. This also enabled me to wander to other towns and hamlets, try other restaurants and find new markets to enjoy. Coupled with the group of friends that I have made, it is much easier now to navigate the area and I no longer hang up the car keys upon arrival.

The best part for me is having a place to getaway. It makes such a difference to my mind and body by leaving the busy city with all of its chaos, and learning to sleep in the pitch black night with not a sound to be heard. I can now see how important it is to explore life outside the concrete jungle, including birds which I once feared. I also understand why many of my new friends made their move permanent.

I won't be doing that anytime soon, but I will continue to spread the joy of escaping the city for a rural retreat. I will also continue to explore the region and share my findings.

Big Eddy Film Festival

Big Eddy Film Festival will celebrate its fourth year over a weekend in September in Narrowsburg, NY this year. As film festivals go, there are hundreds of these small festivals taking place all over the country, honoring film makers who are typically working on extremely small budgets while looking for the attention and distribution for their beloved work. In Narrowsburg, BEFF has slowly grown in both recognition and attendance, adding to the rich cultural footprint that has been created here over time.

BEFF is programmed by a local artist, Tina Spangler, who has written, produced and directed her own short films, spent years working at IFC and Sundance and has been in the center of the film industry for much of her career. She relocated to Narrowsburg, NY full-time after time spent in NYC and has developed this annual festival in a very special way. I featured her short film in one of my previous posts, Lucky Lake which showcases her curiosity of the area and talent in capturing a deep history through the lens of locals.

Previous BEFF films have included For Ellen starring Paul Dano, The Truth About Emanuel costarring Alfred Molina and Goodbye To All That, costarring Amy Sedaris, Heather Graham and Heather Lawless. In addition there is a terrific lineup of documentaries along with many shorts that have fascinating themes and stories. Often Ms. Spangler recognizes films made in the area or stories that are meaningful to the region, such as Tiny. One of my favorite documentary films was Alive Inside about the power of music's capacity to reawaken our souls, especially among our aging population. If you haven't heard of it, I urge you to at least play the short video that is available here.

This year the film festival will open on Friday, September 18th and run through Sunday September 20th. While the film line up has not yet been published, I am confident that there are many special features and short films that will excite and delight the crowd. If you are up for a fun weekend getaway full of great films in a beautiful Catskill town, I recommend this film festival. I think you'll be surprised by what you find, both in Narrowsburg and BEFF.

Greene County

In the northernmost part of the Catskills you will find Greene County. It is about 2 hours drive from NYC, nestled up near the Hudson Valley with the Berkshires just off to the east. With just a short drive to the states Capital District of Albany, a getaway to Greene County is full of activities on all scales.

Rich in culture, Greene county has a fantastic art scene that you can build an entire weekend around. On the second Saturday of every month they hold the Second Saturday Stroll with the Catskill art galleries and restaurants hosting special events that include entertainment. The natural beauty of Kaaterskill Clove valley is perfect for the curious looking to explore a primeval landscape. Whether you enjoy rock climbing, hiking or simply visiting the Kaaterskill Falls, you will discover one of the most beautiful American landscapes in this lovely section of the Catskills.

If outdoor adventure is your jam, go over to Hunter Mountain's SkyRider Tour for the longest and fastest zipline tour in North America. In the winter, Hunter and Windham Mountains offer plenty of skiing, snowboarding, snow tubing, ice skating and snowmobiling. And as with any major outdoor site, both also offer a wide selection of summer activities to fill a weekend schedule, including hiking, biking and golf.

Greene County is a sweet spot for year-round fun and a bit of something for everyone. I will dive deeper into the small towns and hamlets in upcoming posts.

Interview with Charles Hadley Blanchard

In my ongoing quest to learn about the people who live in the small towns of the Catskills, I have had the great fortune to meet a wide variety of interesting folks. One in particular is a well known artist and weaver named Charles Hadley Blanchard, owner of Dyeberry Weaver in Narrowsburg NY. He agreed to share his story of arrival to the Catskill region and how it has transformed over the years.

When did you make your way to the Catskills?
I moved to Dyberry Township north of Honesdale, Pennsylvania in 1977----the Wayne (County) Highlands is just across the Delaware River from the Catskills, but Pennsylvanians do not identify with them.

How long have you lived in Narrowsburg? 
I moved to Narrowsburg in 2003---I needed space for my loom necessitated by a divorce.  My studio had been in my home.

When did you become a weaver? 
I have referred to myself as a weaver since 1968 when I first learned on a very simple loom.  It has always been a bad business decision---but I simply have to do it---I GET to do it.  More than a hobby....

Once you settled into The Catskills, did you find a large artist community? How has that community evolved over time?
Due to the proximity to the Metropolitan Area, there are artists here----but this is for the artist who does not need the NYC galleries, necessarily.  There are many venues for SHOWING art, that also sell domestic items.  The local audience is small.

How would you describe the weekender and visitor population?
The main industry in the Delaware Valley is the second home.  There are more and more Bed and Breakfasts, for those who have not yet made the move.  It is increasing.

As a local, do you welcome the changes that are taking place due to the increased tourism? Describe the upsides and downsides of this.
I pray we are spared the deluge of tourists like on the East End Of Long Island.  Yet, the influx has brought the benefit of better restaurants, higher property values and a sense of trying to preserve and enhance our natural resources.

As new artists, restauranteurs and shopkeepers open businesses, the flavor and offering of the Catskills attracts greater amounts of both visitors and second homeowners. While Charles has witnessed a great shift in the population and style of Narrowsburg, NY, I too in just 5 short years have seen an enormous increase of city dwellers buying a slice of the rural pie. As Charles tactfully mentioned, we would like to be spared the deluge of tourists even though we can't escape the need of a fueled economy. It is a delicate balance for sure.

Delaware "DelCo" County

As I continue to explore and share my experiences in The Catskills, I am hooked on a blog that I've mentioned previously called Escaping Brooklyn, from authors and photographers Erin and Denny. It is one of the most well-crafted, beautiful travel guides I've come upon and keeps me coming back for more!

Recently I posted a question for Erin on this post about Delaware County, Bear Hill Farm, and she was kind to reply. Here is our exchange:

susan says:JULY 12, 2015 AT 1:24 PMHello! I am a fan of your blog and of short getaways. I’ve spent a good amount of time in Sullivan County for my Catskill weekends. How does it compare to Delaware County? Would you share a comparative comment or two about your experiences in both areas of this gorgeous region? many thanks!REPLYErin Lindsey says:JULY 12, 2015 AT 2:15 PMHi Susan, thanks for the message. Sullivan County is enormous, spanning from the Delaware Water Gap area to the western Catskills region; Delaware County is right above that with the same “wingspan”. To me, DelCo is feels more farmy (think rolling hills and pastures), and small-town quaint–and definitely has less people. Everything’s a little more spread out. It’s bigger “cities” (Delhi or Margaretville) are smaller and in better much better condition than Sullivan’s cities (Liberty or Monticello). Both are great though–I wouldn’t choose an entire county over another. There are great places to visit in either one.

The time has come for me to map out my next road trip and it looks like Delaware County will be part of that plan. Perhaps I will follow Erin and Denny's lead on a place they have visited, or maybe I'll simply explore a new area. Either way, it sounds like it will be a wonderful trip.

How To Prepare for Your Weekend Getaway

It's not too difficult to fill a weekend bag with the basics: clothes, shoes and some toiletries. Traveling to the Catskills is a casual vacation that doesn't require very much in terms of fancy clothes. However, there are some things to keep in mind that could make your weekend getaway much more comfortable.  Here is a guide for a great Catskills vacation.

Include the following for maximum comfort!
Bring layers, including fleece. The thing about going up to the country is that even during the summer, it can get cool at night. A decent fleece is always useful.

A hat is ideal when its cold, but make no mistake, when you are hiking or roaming about in spring and summer, its great protection from little critters flying about.

A flashlight might not seem like an obvious choice, but I can tell you that there are typically no street lamps in most areas, and you will find it pitch dark, especially if arriving late on a Friday night. That plus the occasional walk in the evening will make this a useful tool.

A bottle opener is just one of those things that you should keep around. You'll soon realize that whether its to pop off a top or unscrew a cork, you are out of luck if you don't have one.

Matches will come in handy if you have the option to start a garden fire, barbecue or simply wish to light a candle. While most rented cabins should have them, its such a small item to bring along and it sure does beat rubbing two sticks together.

Handiwipes are simply handy! If you go for a hike or explore the great outdoors at all, you might just find that there are only port-o-potties which means you won't have much of an option for cleaning up. Of course, an outdoor picnic would also be reason to want a quick wipe down.

Boots or shoes for muddy conditions, because no matter the season, unless you are going during a very dry time, you will find that rural = dirt. No need to mess up those new sneakers or pair of sandals. Pack wisely and plan for a bit of earthiness.

Snacks are essential for any getaway as far as I'm concerned. But when you arrive in the middle of nowhere, you will quickly find that most stores close at 7pm. It's just the way they do it and if you're feeling snacky, you'll wish you had a bag of chips and some bottled water.

Cash is golden! You are not going to no man's land, however while exploring farmers markets and the like, you will find that cash is the currency. Plus, if you're like me and refuse to pay banking fees, you will unlikely find your chosen commercial bank, though you can certainly come upon an ATM.  That's a personal choice.

Last, either print out or make a note of where you are traveling to if it's your first time. While cell towers are popping up all over to provide stronger connections, you will inevitably find pockets where you don't have service. If relying on GPS, it might fail you. So get a sense of the roadways you'll be taking before you leave, as it can only help.

Enjoy your trip!

Another Bloggers Escape Plan

Last year I stumbled upon a really great blog Escape Brooklyn that is written by a couple, Erin and Denny, authors and photographers, who share their adventures for daytrippin and weekender excursions. It's a beautifully curated travel guide with great format and gorgeous photos. While I regularly visit a town called Narrowsburg in Sullivan County, they are hopping around the region, providing tremendous insight and information about other areas that I want to check out. In turn, it makes writing this blog a lot more fun!

One of the towns I've been interested in visiting is Livingston Manor. I've heard it's really lovely with great hiking and a handful of distilleries and breweries to tour. Escape Brooklyn has a wonderful post about the area called The Arnold House in Livingston Manor. Where some inns offer a private, more secluded feel, The Arnold House encourages guests to hang out with each other. They offer spacious areas for breakfast and dinner, and also organize group activities that you can easily sign up for on a clip board. It makes a quick getaway a lot easier to enjoy when you can select a guided tour right on the spot! It's this ease of planning that can allow for maximum time spent enjoying your visit instead of navigating the options alone.

As I continue to read about the journeys Erin and Denny have taken, I am inspired to not only explore more but let them be my personal guide to introduce new adventures. I look forward to sharing my experiences while encouraging people to take a break from urban living.

The Four Catskill Counties

There are four counties that make up the Catskill region: Sullivan in the southwest, Delaware in the northwest, Ulster in the southeast and Greene in the northeast. I've been mainly focusing on little towns and hamlets in Sullivan County, an area I know and have traveled to often. But there is much more to consider when looking for an escape from city life.

I found a great visitor site, Visit The Catskills, that covers all of the counties and also shares a wealth of information for each: 200+ lodging options that include retreats, spas, inns and cabins, over 50 camp sites, attractions for family fun and historical sites, and activities that have something for everyone in all seasons.

When on the site, you can click on the individual county which will take you out to separate sites, highlighting their regions. Each provides a robust offering of places to eat, go antiquing, agritourism including farm visits and stays, and a list of cultural events. While Sullivan and Ulster counties are a bit closer to NYC, both Delaware and Greene counties are worth traveling the short distance further. The Baseball Hall of Fame is located in Cooperstown, in Delaware County, and both Windham and Hunter Mountains are in Greene County, which offer winter and summer activities. It really is an endless list of travel options for your great escape from urban living!

Keeping it Real, Catskill Culture

In a previous post titled Culture in the Catskills, I shared the Wikipedia entry for Sullivan County and  the scarcity when it comes to established cultural organizations on the entry. It seemed to be missing an entire sub-category about the artistic richness that has been developed in the small hamlets across this region. I added a couple of stand-out art museums so that a search would return results that display the creative exhibition in the area. This was my addition:

Delaware Valley Arts Alliance, founded in 1976, serves as Arts Council for Sullivan County, New York. They present programs in the visual, performing, literary, and media arts and service a county-and valley-wide constituency of artists, arts groups and the general public. The staff advocates for advancement of the arts on the local, state, national, international level. As a catalyst for events not generally available, DVAA sponsors an outstanding variety of arts and cultural programs in its facilities, the Delaware Arts Center, on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Tusten Theatre, a fully-renovated 160-seat facility.
Liberty Museum and Arts Center, the Building, built in 1894 as the modern Poellman Hotel, had seen periods of occupation by plumbing and heating retailers, a furniture store and last by Katz Bakery, a famous local institution. Long abandoned, the building was nearly irreparable with a collapsed roof and leaks everywhere. Into this dire challenge came this group of community minded citizens lead by Robert Dadras, Gene Barbanti and Ron Gozza. They organized volunteers to remove tons of debris, repair the roof and begin renovation. With a few grants as seed money and construction help from a Sullivan County BOCES building class, a miracle was underway. With dedication and much hard work a major portion of the building was completed. On Friday, June 25th, 1997 a Grand Opening ribbon cutting was celebrated at 46 South Main Street, which was temporarily closed for the occasion.

Since then it seems my inclusion has been removed. I was not surprised yet I was still disappointed. My hope was to find that these non-profit organizations would be seen as critical components. The good news is that there are other channels that highlight the cultural offerings in and around this lovely area.

On the River in The Catskills

Up until now, I've shared a range of accommodations to book for a getaway, but not so much on the scope of camping. I've only camped twice in my life, and unlikely to do it again. I didn't grow up going to camp or going camping. My family didn't have that adventurous spirit. However, I do know many who enjoy pitching a tent under the stars and being one with nature. So here are some great spots in the Catskills to consider for your camping pleasure.

One of the more popular camp grounds is Kittatinny, right along the Delaware River in Barryville, NY. They have a ton of organized activities that include white water rafting, canoeing and kayaking, zips lines, paintball and fishing excursions. They tend to attract an urban crowd that come in large groups. The camp grounds include 350 sites on 250 acres of land. There is a small convenience shop on premise for a variety of items including camping essentials, firewood, snacks and ice. A short walk down the road is River Market, which is an awesome little post that carries everything. It's a prime destination for locals and will certainly meet all of the needs for visiting campers.

Kayaking at Kittatinny!

Next up is Landers, an outfitter that offers three riverfront campgrounds with on-site stores and snack bar. Landers is well known in the area for their wide range of river adventures. They have more canoes, kayaks and tubes than any other guide, providing a great service to those staying on site as well as locals and weekend visitors. With several landings along the river, they take you up to one location where you launch, allowing you to make stops at their locations along the way if needed. When you arrive down river at the end of your journey, you will find a bus waiting to take you back to either the campsite or your car park. Its a great way to enjoy a day on the water.

River fun with Landers!

For those who enjoy sleeping under the stars in the form of a cabin, head over to Indian Head Canoes.  They also have three locations along the Delaware, all with camp sites and one with cabins. Like the others, Indian Head Canoes organizes river adventures with journeys that can span 3-7 hours depending on what you are up for! There are multiple drop off locations allowing you to explore the Delaware River and all of the scenery, including hawks and eagles nests.  It's a beautiful excursion not to be missed.

Gorgeous river views with Indians Head!

There are many places to set up camp, but these three river locations offer the best options. Whether you opt to truly sleep outdoors or have an actual door, you will smile wide when you wake to the sound of the river flowing and the lush surroundings. Enjoy!

Bethel Woods Summertime Fun!

I've shared a bit of history about Bethel Woods in a previous post, The Most Historic Music Venue, as an introduction to the site where the Woodstock Music Festival took place back in the summer of 1969. Since the days of it being a dairy farm, Bethel Woods is a fully functioning center for performing arts with both an indoor museum and event gallery along with an 800-acre campus that includes a main stage and pavilion for outdoor concerts.

Many famous musicians have graced the stage of Bethel Woods, from Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Carlos Santana to Willie Nelson, Bob Dylan and the Boston Pops Symphony. It has played host to a wide range of musical talent over the years and continues to bring great shows to audiences that come from all around the region.

The 2015 summer concert season kicked off with Mysteryland USA, a 3-day event over Memorial Day Weekend. It is the longest running electronic music, culture and arts festival in the world, and returned to Bethel Woods for the second year. Recently The Fray, Train, Bryan Adams and Foreigner performed. There is still time to catch a favorite act with the following line up rounding out the remainder of summer:

• DEF LEPPARD, with STYX and TESLA, 7/11/15 @7pm
• Neil Young, with special guests Pussin Boots, 7/17/15 @8pm
• Brad Paisley with Justin Moore and Micky Guyton, 7/24/15, 7:30pm
• Tony Bennett & Lady Gaga, 7/25/15 @8pm
• 3 Doors Down with Seether, 8/1/15 @8pm
• Peter Cetera with the Hudson Valley Philharmonic, 8/2/15 @7pm
• Florida Georgia Line with Thomas Rhett and Frankie Ballard, 8/7/15 @7:30pm
• Lynard Skynard with Marshall Tucker Band, 8/14/15 @7:30pm
• Zac Brown Band, 8/23/15 @7pm
• Rascal Flats with Scotty McCreery and Raelynn, 8/30/15 @7:30pm
• Chicago and Earth, Wind & Fire, 9/1/15 @7:30pm
• Van Halen, 9/6/15 @8pm
• Jackson Browne, 9/19/15 @8pm

Bethel also has a variety of festivals taking place, in the form of music, wine, beer, harvest, wellness and holiday. Each season there's something for everyone.

Lucky Lake

There's a small neighborhood in Narrowsburg NY that was once a thriving summer community for African Americans called Luxton Lake. Just 2 miles outside of town, "Lucky Lake" as it was referred to, attracted many jazz musicians and a few well-known sports figures who bought summer homes with the intention of eventually retiring to the area.  Lucky Lake has a rich history, both exciting and sad, that has been explored and well documented in this short film by Tina Spangler, local film maker and producer. She shares with us the extraordinary community that was built over the years and then destroyed over night.

Tina's film was released in 2009 and since then there have been several attempts by the community to explore rebuilding the dam and restoring the lake. Sadly, NYS and DEP do not agree with the restoration project based on costs, which now likely exceed $1MM and the impact to wild life now inhabiting the land and lake bed.